Can I paint eWood®?
Yes. Surface preparation is always recommended to ensure maximum adhesion between the ewood and the paint. Roughing the eWood® surface up with sand paper is a important first step.
Acrylic and urethane based paints (I.e. Plastic/Oil Based paints - Available from Bunning's/Hardware Stores) designed for outside use or a Vinyl Paint recommended for auto use (available from Autobahn or Supercheap Auto) are the best paints to use.
Please note there are also a number of other 'specialized' paints for plastic that work extremely well.
Can I use a handsaw to cut eWood®?
Yes, a good quality, sharp hand saw can cut ewood. To help with hand saw cutting, a lubricating wax intended for hand saws can be used to make it a little easier.
Can I use a nail gun on eWood®?
No. eWood® is much to hard to nail, either by hand or using a gun.
In fact, it can be quite dangerous to use a nail gun as the nail can bounce off and become a potentially lethal flying hazard.
Never, ever use a nail gun.
We recommend using bolts/nuts or screws. Pilot holes should always be drilled first and the size of the pilot hole should be such that only the flights of the thread are biting into the eWood®.
Can you Glue eWood?
Yes, Various glues work on eWood®. A styrenic based glue (the same glues supplied to make model planes etc) works well. Other glues that work well include Selleys Kwik Grip and Bostik Contact grip. As per paint, surface preparation will always improve the glues effectiveness.
At what temperature will eWood® melt?
eWood® will start to soften at 75C-100C and start to melt 130C-150C.
What is the best way to cut eWood®?
The best way to cut eWood® is to use a circular saw with a lubricated and/or cooled blade.
However, as most people do not have access to this type of equipment the following recommendations are for the general public etc.
Use a standard circular saw but ensure that the blade does not heat up to much as this will tend to slow down the cutting process and melt the eWood rather than cut it. Its best to therefore allow the blade to cool down between cuts if multiple cuts are intended. Its also best to ensure the blade is sharp and allow the blade to do the cutting, i.e do not push to hard on the blade while it is cutting as again this will heat up the blade and the eWood to much which in turn will melt the eWood and this will 'grab' the blade and make cutting less effective.
The same applies to drilling, ensure the drill bit is sharp and allow the bit to do the work (do not push to hard on the drill). Also, allow the drill bit to cool down before drilling again. The heating up of blades and bits is the reason why we recommend to use a water/oil cooled blade if available.
We always recommended cutting/drilling in a well ventilated area because if the eWood does begin to melt due to excessive heat then it will potentially give off some smelly fumes (No different to cutting timber or mdf etc)
How high a retaining wall can I build with eWood®?
It depends on council by-laws and/or building regulations. Currently ewood is not structural rated and therefore cannot be used in any application that requires a material to be structurally rated. In many councils/shires in Melbourne in can be used in retaining walls less than 1m as they do not have to have a structural rating. We do intend to have eWood structurally rated so it can be used in any sized retaining wall.
How long exactly do you think eWood® lasts for?
A very long time. Ewood is warranted for 20 years.
However, to put it into perspective, the raw materials used to make ewood would take several hundred years to break down in landfill.
However, eWood® will weather. It will lose its black 'sheen' overtime and start to go grey. It will often end up looking like weathered timber. This weathering is only occurring on the outer surface of the product and the internal structure of the product has not been effected. Depending on the amount of weathering, you can in some circumstances bring back the black sheen by using products such as Armoral.
In some situations eWood® may bow, this is usually due to either there was no allowance for thermal expansion, or in some circumstances, if ewood is put under constant flexural load and at the same time heated up significantly by the sun it may end up bending.
Why is eWood® Black?
Because most of the plastic used as feedstock is black. As eWood® is made from plastics that would normally go to landfill you will find that a lot of these types of mixed polymers are black in colour or sometimes grey. It is virtually impossible to make Black polymers into other colours during the extrusion process. If we were to use coloring additives or pigments it would also significantly reduce the recycled content of the product.